Clip the excess fabric, turn right side out and iron.Ĥ. (8 inches from the center at the top, 16 inches from the center on the bottom. With right sides together, sew between the stars indicated on the diagram. Stitch a piece of interfacing to the wrong sides of each of the waistbands. Gather the bottom edge (by hand or with a long machine stitch.)ģ. Turn the apron bib right side out and iron it. With right sides together sew around the sides and the top of the apron bib.Ģ. You can use a hole bunch and a piece of ribbon to keep the pieces together so you don't lose them.ġ. They are bulkier to keep around but it really does save a lot of time. You also won't have to waste time ironing pattern pieces or repairing damaged ones. The next time you use it, you will not need to use pins or weights and it will trace very quickly. They were just as popular and are quicker to make if you need one in a hurry.Ī note for beginning sewers: If you make a pattern that you know you will use frequently, such as an apron pattern or a bodice pattern, make it easy on yourself and glue the flimsy pattern pieces to poster board. Alternatively, you could make a apron with no bib. Cut two apron bibs along the fold of the fabric, cut 2 waistbands of fabric and 2 of stiffener, and cut one apron skirt, hem the skirt with a plain hem. The size should fit a teenager or an adult, the only thing that really changes is the size of the waistband. If you are a beginner, buckram can normally be bought at the cutting counter, you just need to ask for it. If you want to make an apron that ties, use at least an extra 12 inches on both sides.įor waistband stiffeners, buckram and stiff muslin were used in the 1860s. To find the waistband length, take you waist measurement on top of the dress you will be wearing it with and add 5 inches for overlap. I thought I'd include my sketchbook diagrams for anyone wanting to make their own. I've been using the same 2 aprons for at least 3 years and think it's time for some new ones. Aprons function as napkins, drying cloths, extra warmth and protection against various "wardrobe malfunctions."ĭuring the war, it is said, that a few ladies who dressed like soldiers and joined the army were caught when another soldier tossed them some apples and they attempted to catch them in their nonexistent aprons. Nothing is so helpful at a reenactment than a good apron. But overall I would highly recommend that Blog's pattern, as it is easy to follow and measure out.My dirty apron.The stains are from the ashy pots. I did alter the pockets so that they sit on front, though, as that's my preference and I have seen others with similar aprons in the Park. Pinner Apron," as the way that it's designed results in an apron that can have the bib up or down, turning it into a typical apron if you so wish. There are a couple patterns and tutorials out there, but I picked the one posted on the Blog "A Stitch in Time", titled, "Guided Patternmaking: Mid-19th c. Mostly I work in the #tinsmith, and sometimes in the #blacksmith, so I need an apron that covers and protects more of my dress hence.the creation of this Pinner Apron! □ #pinnerapron. While my sewing skills aren't yet where I can make a period-acurate dress of my own, I am working up to it by way of accessories. Which means I have the opportunity to dress up like a Pioneer at least half a week, every week! □. More I now work at the This is the Place Heritage Park in Salt Lake City.
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